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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.